Me and George in Indonesia

November 18, 2006 by barbara

by becca young
(Proud Georgia Democrat!)

(Barbara's note: Becca travels to Indonesia on a regular basis to monitor tsunami recovery for the Presbyterian Church. I have a hunch that her travels there stand in stark contrast to those of George Junior. W is expected in Indonesia on Monday as part of revisiting the southeast Asia that is near and dear to his heart. As noted by Susan, this includes Vietnam, which he side-stepped 40 years ago.) Read on.

I left home less than two days ago and the adventures are already accumulating faster than I can record them. In a quite unusual move for me, at the last minute I decided to check one of my bags. My plane from Atlanta was late getting into Chicago and I barely had time to sprint from one end of the B terminal at O'Hare to the other before the doors closed. As I caught my breath in my window seat, I looked out at the guys loading the luggage into the cargo hold below and was greatly relieved to see my own bag riding up the conveyer belt.

The only good thing about the next 30 hours were my special-ordered Hindu vegetarian meals, providing me with delicious curries and Indian breads while my seatmates, over and over again, had to choose between chicken and beef. After a excruciating 15 hour plane ride from Chicago to Hong Kong, then another five hour ride from Hong Kong to Singapore, and ten hours wandering the halls of the Singapore airport, I arrived in Jakarta this morning to find that my bag had been left in limbo in Singapore much like I had been earlier.

I spent nearly three hours in the lost and found at the Jakarta airport, making a new friend in the kind and helpful Yuli, in her lovely blue veil and colorful pants suit, who has been tracking down travelers' luggage for more than ten years in a small windowless office next to baggage claim. She demanded that one of her co-workers give me $30 to buy myself clothes while I waited for my luggage to arrive '" I'm assuming she reimbursed him later, but it was fascinating to see how immediately the man reached dug into his back pocket and peeled out the bills for me '" that's a lot of money for Indonesians, so it is clear that Yuli is definitely in charge in that world. I also made multiple calls to my aunt and brother, who did their best to contact United and Singapore Airlines from the US to put pressure on them to find the bag. By the time I left, mostly to get out of Yuli's way so she could do her job and not be hosting me, there was still no news.

I walked out into the lovely steam bath that is Indonesian weather (about 93 degrees today and a predictable 100% humidity), right past all the non-legit taxi drivers offering to take me into town for a "bargain" $15 plus tolls. I got on the public bus for all of $1.50 and not even having to stop at the toll booths! The bus was packed and I sat next to a lovely Madurese man, meaning he is from the Madura people, one of the 652 distinct ethnic groups of Indonesia. Madurese live on the eastern end of the island of Java. He works for one of the bigger banks in Indonesia and was in town for a meeting with the branches here.

As we talked, I began to think he was the sweetest man in the world '" a kind, gentle way of speaking and an easy laugh. He told me about his work and his family (a wife and three children whom he adores), and then the conversation widened. He said he had never been out of the country, except for every night when he sits down to surf the Internet and is able to see all the things that are out there in the wider world.

He also said that he thinks the US and Americans are great, that we have such a great country with a strong democracy and advanced technology, and he wishes that Indonesians could be more like Americans, less corrupt and more energetic and hard-working. He said he loves to watch movies and see what America is like. And for maybe the first time in any conversation I've ever had with an Indonesian, I didn't try to point out that the US has its negative sides as well. I'm still basking in the glow of November 7, and for a brief moment in that crowded smelly bus, stuck in the endless traffic jam that is Jakarta, without my luggage and tired beyond imagining, I let myself agree that maybe America isn't such a bad place after all.

We arrived at the bus terminal in downtown Jakarta and I had to look for transport to the office where I would be working for the next few days. I tried one of the "bajays," which is basically a lawnmower engine on three wheels, with a tiny curved steel frame into which the driver and passengers cram themselves '" but the guy wanted $3 for a 50-cent ride.

A motorcycle driver just behind him offered to give me a better deal, so I asked if he had an extra helmet. Assuring me he did, he walked over to a neighboring unattended motorcycle and took the helmet hanging off its handlebars (I'm sure he returned it later; they have a mutually beneficial sharing policy). So the next thing I knew, I was speeding around Jakarta traffic jams '" sneaking through narrow passages between stopped vehicles and taking shortcuts over sidewalks '" sitting on the back of his small Honda. For a moment I was glad I didn't have my luggage.

At one point, we happened to ride past the US embassy, and the motorcycle driver chuckled. "Look, it's a demonstration against the visit of Bush next week." "They've already started?" I asked. "Yes, they've been at it for a while."

I arrived in one piece at the office and was warmly greeted by the staff there. After doing some preparation work with them for an upcoming meeting with European and US donors, I hopped on yet another motorcycle and was taken to my hotel. I went right to sleep and was awakened at 8:00 pm by the front desk saying my baggage awaited me in the lobby. What a relief.

And now as I have been composing this epistle, the evening news has been all about the upcoming visit of "George Walker Bush" next Monday. Demonstrations against his visit across the country have numbered as many as one million people. After the news, there was a panel discussion moderated by one of the station's female reporters. The panel consisted for four men: two leaders of prominent Muslim groups, one leader of a prominent Christian group, and one Indonesian diplomat who has served at the Indonesian embassy in Washington DC. The discussion was fascinating and I took careful notes.

They began with statistics: a 2005 survey showed that 19% of the Indonesian people don't like the USA; 42% do not agree with US foreign policy; 36% would support a boycott of US products; and 21% think that they should cut off relations with the US. I guess two percent of the people who like us still don't want to have anything to do with us. Personally I'm surprised that the figures are this low '" Indonesia is 80% Muslim, so it's significant that 81% of Indonesians like the USA and 79% want to maintain a relationship with us.

They went on to tackle several different subjects. The first was the question of why all four of them were calling for their President to refuse to receive Bush as a guest in Indonesia. Each one of them gave reasons why they oppose Bush's foreign policy. They perceive Bush as a war president '" his answer to everything is to send in US troops. One particularly strident speaker said he is not just opposed to Bush's political policies but also his economic policies, in which he is turning his back on the 20,000 children who die every day for lack of food, health care, and clean water.

They feel that a majority of the aid that the US gives only benefits the US in the long run. They note that Bush's efforts to privatize education and health services fail to help the poor and needy in a truly constructive way but instead benefit US business. One participant stated, "For this reason, we reject the policies of the US Republican Party and agree with those of the Democratic Party." Now if we could just get the Democratic Party to understand the wisdom of these Indonesians and not be beholden to US business.

The next subject was whether the issue between Indonesians and Bush is a religious one. All four of the participants insisted that the issue is not religious. But they do feel that Bush's policies at the present time are having the most negative effect on Muslim populations. One of them said that "Bush's current policies are punishing Islam."

The specific countries they mentioned were Palestine, Lebanon, Afghanistan and Iraq. They also pointed out that it is not only Muslim people who are opposed to Bush's policies '" that Latin America, which is predominantly Roman Catholic, is also stridently opposed to him. And they noted that as of November 7, it is clear that Bush's own country does not support his policies.

By this time I had to reach for a Kleenex to wipe away the trickles of moisture coming out of the corners of my eyes. They were tears of relief because for the first time I was seeing first-hand the power of the message that we sent to the world on US election day, which also happened to be my birthday. We did it, we let them know that Bush's behavior is unacceptable to us as well, and they heard us loud and clear. (I can't tell you how many Indonesians who, knowing I'm involved in the Democratic Party in Georgia, have congratulated me on our victory nationwide. It occurs to me to wonder if I would ever have a clue whether their party won or lost, or even when their elections were being held? Their knowledge of US events never ceases to astound me.) One of the panelists said that he would like to see Bush admit that he has been affected by the results of the election and will change his policies. Wouldn't we all?

But the next topic I found even more encouraging. This is the one I ask you to share with all of your friends '" and even your enemies, strangers, Republicans, whomever.

Every participant on that panel was adamant in insisting that they wanted to find PEACEFUL ways to demonstrate their opposition to George Bush's policies. To remind you, these are leaders in the largest Muslim country in the world, and they all said that they were insisting to their followers that the upcoming demonstrations be peaceful ones. This show was being broadcast at primetime nationally in Indonesia, in their own language, so it is clear that they were not saying these things to please outsiders but to influence the people of Indonesia themselves.

Besides having peaceful demonstrations, they also said they wanted to have the UN take a larger role in areas where US policies have been responsible for so much human suffering, particularly Iraq. And they suggested that another option would be to bring Bush to trial as a war criminal in an international court of justice. Please note the importance of what they were saying. They do not want to harm Americans; they only want to stop Bush's damaging policies that are causing the suffering and death of so many people around the world.

They then talked about how Indonesia itself has played a role in trying to promote the peace process in the Middle East. The President, Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono (known as SBY), has been to both Palestine and Lebanon to broker peace with Israel. He received letters of appreciation from the presidents of both of those countries '" not from Hamas and Hezbollah, mind you, but from the civil government leaders.

One of the panel participants stated that, as the largest Muslim country in the world, Indonesia has a moral obligation to smaller Muslim states to stand up for them when they are being bullied by a world power, and to promote peace in those places. As long as the US backs Israel and provides more foreign and military aid to them than to all other countries combined, who else is going to stand up for Palestine and Lebanon, or to seek peace rather than war? I was impressed that Indonesia felt it could take on part of that important role.

They called for the US to "immediately allow Palestine into negotiations" and said that Palestine has a right to an independent existence as a sovereign country. I was reminded that for many Muslims, the issue of US support for Israel is the number one reason they oppose us '" not Iraq, not our wealth, not our religious faith, not any of a number of things we tell ourselves '" but our support for Israel's illegal occupation of Palestine and long-standing policy of the intentional destruction of Palestine civilization and integrity as a nation. Until we deal directly with that issue, the so-called "war on terror" will never be resolved. Killing terrorists will not eliminate the real source of the problem, which is our blindness to the damage our support for Israel causes among all Muslims.

They also said that if the US wants world respect, then Bush should use "soft" power instead of tough power, i.e., diplomacy rather than military aggression and war. They said that Indonesia needs to do the same as an example of how it can be done. They said they do not want to shut the door on the US because, they said, "We need to engage in dialogue with them so that the US can gain a wider perspective on Islam."

Finally, after the woman moderator thanked the panelists for their participation, she concluded with what I felt was the most remarkable statement of the entire conversation, and one which I needed to hear myself: She said we must always remember that, even though we disagree with Bush's policies, we must resist the temptation to paint him as a monster.

Did I mention that all of these people are citizens of the largest Muslim country in the world? Yet they have more respect for Dubya than I do.

Posted in

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